Eyelets can be diamond shaped, round or rectangular. Most are symmetrical, but an eyelet can have a central hole that is off-center and an overall asymmetrical shape.

Often called an “Algerian” eyelet, the most basic of all eyelets contains eight stitches. In this form it can be stitched on Aida as well as linen. All other eyelets must be done on a “thread-count” fabric or canvas. The Algerian Eyelet has stitches only in the four corners, top, bottom and two sides. Other traditional eyelets have stitches between every linen thread surrounding a central hole.

The size of the central hole can vary from a mere pin point to an opening that dominates the eyelet. It is controlled entirely by the tension on the stitches as they are pulled. The stitches inside the circle should lie flat, not one on top of another.

When making many eyelets in one project, you will get the best result by pulling consistently. Many people find that using a tool to poke a hole in the center before beginning helps keep stitches consistent. Antique and reproduction stilettos are available for this task; a large tapestry needle is a handy alternative.

When stitching multiple eyelets, take care not to carry the working fiber across the back of your fabric in such a way that the eyelet hole is blocked. If the eyelet hole is not clear, it will “show” in the finished project. If it seems impossible to move from one eyelet to another without trailing the working fiber, “tunnel” under the finished stitch and then begin the next one.

Keeping this in mind, you can start an eyelet with any one of the individual stitches that make up the eyelet. It is best if you work in a single direction, clockwise or counterclockwise, as you stitch an individual eyelet. But every complete eyelet in a project does not have to be stitched in the same direction as the others. Nor does every eyelet have to be started in the same place as all the others in that particular design. One exception is with the “window” or “framed” eyelets. It is best if these eyelet styles are always started next to one of the “window panes” or “crosses” in the center of the eyelet.

Important: the outside edges of the eyelet should be smooth, straight, and without any gaps between the eyelet and the linen around it.

Pearl Cotton is an excellent choice to use for stitching eyelets. It is a strong fiber and can withstand the tension needed for pulled thread work. It also comes in different weights (thickness). In the US, numbers 3, 5, 8 and 12 are commonly available. Number 12 is the finest and number 3 is the heaviest in this range.

Eyelets are often used in “whitework“ which is simply stitching with white fibers on a white linen or canvas. Today, whitework is also done with colors. Match the fiber and fabric colors as closely as possible.